Friday, December 10, 2010
Pationg
Thursday, December 2, 2010
Foot Note: Tana Toraja (Rante Pao)
Sun was peaking behind the mountains, fog was still covering the top....really irresistable view. I glimpsed on my watch, it's already 5 am. It's really chill for me, I drag my blanked up to my neck. The imagination of hot curray noodle and hot tea gave warm feeling into my body.
Either it's luck or what....I watched Rambu Solo ceremonial, complete with buffalos sacrifation. Indeed it's a cruel thing to see in very early in the morning but I didn't think I would have the same moment in the future so I strengthen my heart to watch the whole thing. I felt sorry for those buffalos...with their eyes full of suffer and their short breath struggled for their lives. Oh my God, I really couldn't erase it from my memory.
Ke'te Kesu was the first spot I visited. It's a culture village on the mountain and surrounded by paddy field. I suer, the view in here is so extremely beautiful! I took so many shoots in the sites, covering tongkonan houses.
From there, I stepped to the back side of the village. There's Toraja's tribe grave yard. If more than 30 buffalos were sacrificed in Rambu Solo ceremony, then a grave made like Tongkonan House made. There are some like that complete with wodden statues (the replica of buried dead person).
Beside "house" tombs, there're also coffins buried inside rocky cliffs (more higher the hole is more higher the position of the dead). There're various kinds of coffins. Most of them were rotten because they're already hundred of years. Thus, I could see human skeletons and their favorite things inside. Undoubtable, cigarettes are male's favorite. It could be seen from lots of cigarettes inside male coffins.
If a man died, his coffin's carved as a buffalo
Wooden statues representated dead people. They're placed in a locked hole to avoid theft
By the time I left Ke'te Kesu, I found something interesting on the left side of the path. I saw a man making a coffin
Lemo
In Lemo there are Toraja tribe's tombs made on rocky mountain. The view from here made me speechless. Blue mountain covered by white cloud and rice fields beneath the mountain. Really worth to see.
Kambira
Kambira is baby grave (only purposed for max 3 months old baby - has no teeth). Different from most Toraja tribe's graves, dead babies were burried inside living Tara's tree. This Tara tree grows in the centre of bamboo trees.
For those who are interested in visiting this place, please don't forget to apply insect repealent for many mosquitos in this place.
Swaya
These grave yard was only for Puang Tambora Langi's empire clan (Sanggala's king).
It was really obvious that recently Rambu Solo ceremony held as there was blood all over the grass.
I was lucky because by the time of my coming, one of king family was about to buried. By one of the eldest's permision, I climbed bamboo ladders. It was 15 meters high. I wanted to see the hole. I was really curious. The hole was a meter deep and 1,5 meter high. I could imagine how difficult it was to carry a dead body inside that hole.
I climbed these bamboo ladders to see the tombs in Swaya
"Wow, you're so brave...we don't even have the guts to climb there," said some people over there. I was affraid that I broke their customs, but according to the eldest I didn't break any custom. It was forbidden to keep the hole opened while there was no dead body entered.
Tampang Allo
From Swaya I walked through a pave path, 300 meters long. This path leaded me to Tampang Allo (Puang Menturio's clan grave yard). The path was cleaved wide paddy fields in front of blue mountains, it was really breathtaking view.
Once my friend and I were deceived to walking to the end of the path, fortunatelly Mr.Ussup (driver) pointed us to the right direction (steped down from a small bridge, walked through paddy field on the left side of the path). I was confused as the view in here wasn't as good as the previous one, but after I turned my head I saw another tiny bridge made from tree branches on my right. This tiny bridge leaded me to a big cave. A grave yard inside a cave. The air there was very humid but cool.
Londa
Another grave yard....but the difference was I had to steped in 2 narrow and dark caves. To explore this grave yard, I was accompanied by a guide who carried a lamp. Actually, these two caves were connected. There was a very narrow hole, so if one would like to go to the other cave, he had to crawl but I didn't want to crawl for my angkle was bruising. I decided to enter those two caves from each front.
In this cave there were "Romeo - Juliet" skeletons. They were very famous in Rante Pao for their forbiden love (they're still cousins), so they committed suicided by hung themselves.
Marante
A little sneak peak to north side of Rante Pao, the driver took us to Marante. In here graves (= wooden statues) were not made inside the holes but on the cliff and caves. This rocky mountain was close to an elementary school.
In the school yard there was a albino buffalo. I wonder how could an expensive thing left without any guard. For your information, the cheapest albino buffalo is IDR 300.000.000! This kind of buffalo was sacrificed only for the empire.
Note:
Average entry tickets are IDR 5000
Monday, November 29, 2010
Foot Note: Maros - Makassar (again)
The first cave we visited was Leang Pettae. We had to stepped on iron ladders and walked through locked gate to come inside the cave.
Our Guide pointed at hand palm and boar paintings on the cave ceiling. It was rather difficult to find the right angle to take the picture as it's slipery and the land I stood on was cracked.
Boar painting
Hand Palm Painting
Between those hand palms painting there was a hand palm with only 4 fingers. Our guide explained that it meant to show one's grief. So if one of their family member was passed away, they cut their own finger.
The second cave we visited was Leang Pettakere. There were also hand palm and boar paintings in this cave, but the specialty of this cave was fossiled kitchen trash (shells).
To avoid damage, the location was fenced
I was wondering how come these shells could be here as I know the nearest coast was about 60 kilometers from there. How could be there were lots of shells in front of the cave? Then our guide told me that there were 2 theories. First, that place was close to the sea. Second, ancient people were fishermen and they brought their catch to their cave.
After walked around, we walked back to the gate. Our guide invited us to visit the museum which had so many cave pictures, stones, ancient people tools and jewelry, giant shell, etc.
Leang Leang Museum
Then we left Leang-Leang. We chose different way. This time we took a route which leaded us to marble factory and Bosowa cement factory and finally headed to Poros Maros.
View ala Guilin - RRC in Maros
Somba Opu Fortress
It was my second time visiting Somba Opu. There was a little difference in entry road headed to this fortress. On my first visit (http://mycoratcoretz.blogspot.com/2010/06/foot-note-benteng-somba-opu-makassar.html) I took east way (turned left after crossed the bridge), but since there was restoration on this sites, we had to take west way (turn right after crossed the bridge). We passed civil houses before reached the fortress.
Traditional Harbour: Paotere
Adzan Maghrib was sounded when we entered Paotere traditional harbour. Sea aroma gasped into my scent when I walked out from the car. My friend and I intensionally wanted to frame golden moment for photography lover (sunset).
Unlike the beaches in Surabaya and Jakarta, Paotere was neat and clean. Pinishi boats were line up on my right. The water was so clear invited people to jump and swim on the coast line. It was really tempting, but unfortunately I had to bury it as I had to go to Tana Toraja that evening.
Monday, November 15, 2010
Foot Note: Pesona Danau Toba
Dari situ kami kemudian melangkah memasuki kuburan tua Raja Sidabutar. Sebelum masuk, kami harus mengenakan ulos. Aku sempat mengajukan pertanyaan pribadi kepada juru kunci makam sambil berbisik...aku takut tidak diperbolehkan masuk ke situs makam karena sedang berhalangan. Untunglah ternyata hal itu tidak diperhitungkan, jadi aku bisa melenggang masuk.
Juru kunci makam menjelaskan mengenai sejarah Raja Sidabutar dan beberapa simbol. Dua di antaranya adalah cicak dan 4 buah payudara. Cicak menyimbolkan kemampuan orang suku Batak untuk beradaptasi dan berbaur, sama halnya seperti cicak yang bisa dijumpai di segala tempat. Sedangkan 4 buah payudara melambangkan kesucian, kesuburan, harmoni, dan kemakmuran.
Aku kembali bertanya mengenai selendang yang menghiasi masing-masing makam, ternyata ada maknanya. Warna putih melambangkan surga, warna merah melambangkan dunia fana, dan warna hitam melambangkan dunia bawah tanah.
Museum Batak
Dari Makam Tua Raja Sidabutar, kami berjalan menuju Museum Batak. Di halaman samping depan museum terdapat kumpulan batu yang susun menyerupai meja dan kursi melingkar, terdapat pula beberapa buah patung.
Museum ini cukup unik karena menggunakan konsep rumah panggung. Untuk memasuki museum harus menaiki beberapa buah anak tangga yang terbuat dari kayu. Begitu memasuki bangunan utama, kami langsung disuguhi beraneka ragam perabot dan perangkat rumah tangga, kain tenun, alat musik, patung-patung kayu yang unik, dll. Tidak ada patokan pasti mengenai harga masuk museum, hanya terdapat kotak kayu kecil di samping pintu masuk yang bisa diisi sesuai kesediaan pengunjung. Biaya tersebut nantinya akan dipakai untuk perawatan benda-benda yang ada di dalam museum tersebut.
Museum Batak
Setelah puas menjelajah musem dan mencecar guide dengan berbagai macam pertanyaan, kami melangkah ke sisi kiri bangunan museum. Di situ terdapat kantin kecil yang menyediakan aneka minuman dingin. Kami duduk di sana beberapa saat sambil bercerita, bertukar informasi, dan bercanda.
Tak terasa jam di tanganku sudah menunjukkan pukul 3 sore...aku harus segera menyebrang dan mengejar bis agar tidak terlalu malam tiba di kota Medan. Belum puas rasanya, aku harus kembali lagi ke Danau Toba. It's a promise!
Foot Note: Wisata Kota Medan
Salah satu impianku adalah menginjakkan kaki di Sumatera. Pucuk dicinta ulampun tiba pada saat aku ditugaskan ke Medan dalam rangka seminar. Aku langsung menjelajah dunia maya untuk mencari informasi mengenai informasi tempat-tempat wisata di dalam kota yang bisa kukunjungi dalam waktu yang singkat mengingat aku terikat jadwal kerja yang padat selama di sana.
Istana Maimun
Istana Maimun terletak di tengah kota, berdekatan dengan masjid agung. Ini adalah tempat wisata pertama yang kukunjungi di kota Medan. Raja yang menghuni istana ini masih sangat muda, baru berusia 10 tahun!
Tampak dari depan bangunan ini sangat megah dengan warna dominasi kuning dan putih. Di bagian samping depan halaman dimanfaatkan oleh para pedagang tanaman hias sehingga tampak asri.
Tepat di bagian depan tangga menuju gerbang utama istana terdapat beberapa pedagang kaki lima yang menjajakan kaos bersablon khas kota Medan.
Kesalahanku adalah mengunjungi istana Maimun sewaktu shollat Jumat jadi hanya diperkenankan mengitari bagian luar dan halaman istana saja. Pengunjung boleh masuk ke bagian dalam istana seusai shollat Jumat atau pada pukul 2 siang. Karena waktu itu masih menunjukkan pukul 11.30, aku memutuskan untuk mengunjungi tempat wisata lain di kota Medan.
Tjong A Fie's Mansion
Tjong A Fie alias Tjong Fung Nam adalah legenda mayor keturunan Tionghua di Medan. Ia pertama kali menjejakkan kaki di Sumatera pada 1877. Pada masa pemerintahan Hindia Belanda ia ditunjuk menjadi mayor karena kesuksesannya berbisnis, hal ini dimaksudkan untuk mengurus komunitas Tionghua di Medan. Bahkan oleh kekaisaran Cina (Dinasti Ching) ia ditunjuk menjadi "Honorary Officer for Far East".
Rumah unik ini terletak di kawasan niaga kota Medan, tepatnya di Jalan Ahmad Yani 105. Mudah sekali menemukan kediaman keluarga Tjong A Fie. Tampilannya yang kuno tampak mencolok di antara bangunan-bangunan modern ataupun bangunan yang telah diremajakan di kanan kiri depannya. Bangunan ini memadukan arsitektur cina, melayu, dan eropa.
Gerbang Tjong A Fie Mansion
Tjong A Fie mansion terbagi menjadi 3 bangunan utama, yaitu gedung bagian kiri, tengah, dan kanan. Gedung bagian kanan dan tengah terbuka bagi pengunjung, sedangkan gedung bagian kiri tertutup bagi wisatawan mengingat gedung ini masih dihuni oleh keluarga dan kerabat Tjong A Fie. Setelah membayar tiket masuk sebesar Rp 35.000/orang, aku melangkah masuk. Seorang guide menuntunku melalui gedung bagian kanan. Ruangan terasa sejuk karena tinggi plafond yang mencapai 6 meter dan ukuran jendela yang besar-besar. Di gedung bagian kanan terdapat banyak sekali foto keluarga besar Tjong A Fie.
Potret Tjong A Fie Bersama Istri, 7 Anak, dan Keponakannya
Kami kemudian memasuki gedung bagian tengah atau gedung utama. Gedung ini begitu besarnya, bayangkan saja terdapat 4 ruang tamu dengan gaya arsitektur yang berbeda-beda: ruang tamu bergaya oriental untuk menerima tamu dari dataran cina, ruang tamu bergaya melayu untuk menerima tamu lokal (kerabat Sultan Deli konon selalu diterima dalam ruangan ini), ruang tamu bergaya Eropa lengkap dengan ballroom untuk acara dansa, dan ruang tamu umum. Belum lagi 3 altar yang ada di dalam rumah ini. Di dalam rumah ini ada 35 ruang lho! Besar banget, kan...
Altar Leluhur (motret sampe ndlosor demi angle yang ok)
Sayangnya ada beberapa ruangan yang atas permintaan keluarga, tidak diperkenankan bagi pengunjung untuk dipotret, yaitu ruang foto dan kamar tidur pribadi Tjong A Fie. Sehingga dalam dua ruangan tersebut aku sengaja berlama-lama, terutama di kamar tidur pribadi Tjong A Fie. Di dalam kamar itu tersimpan dengan sangat apik barang-barang pribadi Tjong A Fie beserta istrinya, bahkan pakaian yang tersimpan di dalam lemari adalah pakaian yang biasa dipakai oleh Tjong A Fie. Aku bahkan sempat membaca sebuah buku berbahasa Belanda yang terletak di meja belajar Tjong A Fie. Ternyata Tjong A Fie gemar membaca. Hal ini bisa dilihat dari berbagai macam buku berbahasa Cina, Belanda, dan Indonesia di rak buku dan meja belajarnya.
Velangkanni Catolic Church
Ini dia gereja Katolik yang cantik dan tak tampak seperti gereja, melainkan tampak seperti sebuah kuil di India. Tak mengherankan karena Pastor di gereja ini adalah orang India. Gereja cantik nan unik ini terletak di pinggiran kota Medan, tepatnya di kawasan Tanjung Selamat.
Kecantikan gereja ini mengundang banyaknya pengunjung untuk berziarah ke tempat ini. Aku melangkah masuk dan menjumpai beberapa jemaat yang sedang berdoa di ruang ibadah. Aku mencuri-curi kesempatan untuk mengabadikan keelokan dan kemegahan interior dan arsitekturnya. Benar-benar cantik! Pada saat melangkah keluar ruang ibadah, baru aku sadari ternyata ada papan larangan untuk memotret.....oops :p
Bagian Dalam Gereja Katolik Maria Velangkanni
Dari Kaki Patung Bunda Maria Inilah Terpancar Mata Air Suci
Keajaiban kedua yang terjadi di gereja ini adalah munculnya sumber mata air dari kaki patung Bunda Maria. Awalnya air yang mengalir itu dikira adalah kebocoran pada pipa air, namun setelah seluruh pipa diperiksa, tidak ditemukan kebocoran apapun. Air ini sempat diujicoba untuk mengetahui kelayakannya dan air ini dinyatakan layak untuk dikonsumsi tanpa harus dimasak sekalipun! Akupun mengambil kesempatan untuk mereguk kesegaran air ini. Hanya memberikan kontribusi sesuai kerelaan hati untuk mengganti ongkos pembuatan botol plastik berukuran 500 ml.
Monday, November 8, 2010
Icip Icip Kuliner Medan
Rugi ke Medan kalau melewatkan makan BPK Tesalonika (bagi yang non Muslim). Depot BPK Tesalonika di Jalan .... terkesan biasa sekali, tapi jangan ditanya yang mampir untuk menikmati menu pilihan di depot tersebut. Menu khas suku Batak ditawarkan oleh depot ini, mulai BPK, saksang, arsik ikan mas, dll...hebatnya lagi menu tidak dijual per porsi tetapi minimal 1/4 kilo! Menyantap sepiring nasi dilengkapi sayur singkong, babi panggang kering, sambal hijau, dan teh botol sosro dingin....wuih, mantap!!!
Selain itu, jangan lupa beli oleh-oleh khas Medan:
1. Bolu gulung Meranti
2. Bika Ambon